The slow life

November 28, 2025

One of the major pulls for us to Guatemala was the coffee industry. I had done a lot of research on different companies that offered them, but one that had stood out was De La Gente. They are a nonprofit organization that works with local small scale coffee growers that have formed a cooperative to make coffee growing possible for the locals.

It started back in 2014, the plantation that we visited is a part of the San Miguel Escobar Cooperative. There are 16 coffee growers that are a part of it, and they actually renewed in 2021.

We got picked up close to our hotel for a quick bus ride to the coffee farmer’s house. When we booked the tour, we loved the idea that it would include a portion of it that would include a stop at the house. As we made our way out of Antigua, the streets got rougher and you began to see the disparity from the “city” life to rural Guatemala.

The further out we got – we even saw local watering holes where women and children were gathered with buckets collecting it for the day. It was just such a stark difference from back home where we genuinely take for granted turning the tap on and getting hot water. Often times when we travel I’m left humbled and a little in my thoughts feeling both ashamed for complaining about things about utterly grateful for the things that I do have.

As we pulled up to our stop we were greeted by a group of dogs (Guatemala is definitely a stray dog country – not as many cats wandering around!) and our coffee farmer – Andres was out front throwing a biscuit at a rather sad looking puppy.

We had been in a van full of people, but about 5 of us had been called to get out and our groups were split up. We were with a wonderful gal, Ava, from Ireland, Haim, from Florida, and another woman from New Jersey who I don’t know how to spell her name! We had a short uphill walk to the coffee field with Andres, the translator, and someone else from De La Gente (DLG).

Andres

Once we got to the field we learned more about how Andres, how he got into the coffee industry, how coffee is grown, and how many fields he owns. It was really fascinating to learn Andres’ story and how much he sacrificed to become successful. He had grown up picking coffee for someone else, and then had spent 18 years waiting tables in Guatemala City while his children grew up to save money, and then finally had enough money to buy his own land to grow his own coffee. In the beginning he sold his coffee to big corporations, and didn’t make a lot of money.

Then came along DLG. DLG made it possible to form the coop, which provided the equipment for them to produce their own coffee end to end. The tours also provide about 30% directly to the coffee farmers themselves (at least according to the fact sheets that they provided to us).

We got to pick the ripe berries from the field and then made our way back down to his house. He told us all about how you need the shade trees and how the berries ripen at different times. Full growing process from a master!

You only want to pick the red fruit, the skin is called “cascara” and the coffee bean is inside. It’s ripe and ready to pick when it’s bright red!

You guys, like his actual house with his wife, daughter, and grandson. Incredible. We roasted the beans on his wood-fire stove with his daughter, taking turns of course.

A machine that separates the fruit skin (cascara) from the coffee bean
Green coffee beans after they have been sun dried for almost 2 weeks in the sun (manual process to keep them moving so they dry evenly and don’t grow mold or rot).
We hand roasted the beans on their kitchen’s wood fire stove; the smell!

Then they broke out their old lava stone metate – a long lava stone tool that is used to grind grain and seeds – and we took turns grinding the roasted coffee beans. We learned that the metate was passed down from Andres’ wife’s grandmother. It was at least over 90 years old, if not older. There I was standing in this man’s kitchen in rural Guatemala thinking about how many women had touched this metate. This man and his family had graciously welcome us into their humble home.

We all took turns hand grinding the freshly roasted beans

And I complain about the most embarrassing things. Haim and I shared a moment where everything truly just felt so small. Like our problems really aren’t problems. That really felt like the theme from the day, because Ava felt the same way as well. That we really don’t need all of these THINGS. As we’re standing in their kitchen and they were all just so happy.

So I started crying, just a few tears. I mean it was beautiful to think about something that was so unbreakable – so valuable – to be passed down from generation to generation. There we were, grinding out the coffee beans (rather poorly might I add) and drinking coffee with them.

I can’t recommend that tour enough.

From there, we made our way back into town and parted ways. Andy and I made our way to get empanadas for lunch. Before making our way to Casa Santo Domingo. We had made deep tissue spa appointments beforehand.

The facilities were incredible – it was a former convent that had been destroyed in one of the major earthquake. We got there early so we could swim in the pool, use the sauna, and the hot tub. By the time it was our appointment we were really relaxed. Both of us had incredible massages – we both thought we might have bruises from how much pressure our therapists were using!

After the massages we made our way back to our hotel. We freshened up and were trying to figure out what to do for dinner when I realize we were close to a speakeasy. It was a no brainer at that point and we made our way over there. The front was a wig shop – which was really funny – we were the first ones inside so we got our pick of the tables.

By the end of the night, after we had wrapped up and the place was full. I was seated next to one of the old school rotary phones and it started to ring. I looked at our server and asked him if I should answer it and he shrugged. So I did. I had to solve a riddle – and once I did I was rewarded with a shot.

Up Next: ATV tour on Pacaya Volcano

The Last Stop: From Zürich to London

September 12, 2025

We woke up the next morning and packed up our luggage for one of the last times on this trip. I know what you might be thinking, and yes… it was a grueling schedule. There were a number of different moments throughout the trip where I would look at Andy and just say, “I don’t know where (insert clothing article) is!” And not to mention that I completely forgot to pack my rain jacket, which was a rookie mistake… but I digress.

We wanted to get a quick breakfast because we had a few sightseeing spots we wanted to see before heading to the Zürich airport. There was a Starbucks next to our hotel and we collect the “Wish You Were Here” series coffee mugs from our different international destinations, so we figured – why not kill two birds with one stone?

Well that quickly became the most expensive Starbucks visit I think I’ve ever had, $76 later. Yes, you read that right. That was for two drinks and two breakfast sandwiches and a mug. When people say that Switzerland is an expensive country, they aren’t kidding. Despite how expensive it is, Andy and I really want to visit again to do a more extensive trip.

Once we finished breakfast we made our way out into the rain to do a quick power walk around Zürich. I had realized that Grossmünster was known for its stained glass windows, so we made our way back to see if we could do a power walk through the church to see them. But as soon as we got there, we saw a bunch of police officers standing outside.

Gulp, that didn’t look good. Turns out it was closed for some special ceremony and closed to the public. So we continued on our original plan and finished our walking tour. Stopping by a few other sights before picking up luggage and car.

The Zürich airport was really quite lovely, and at this point on the trip we had seen a ton of different airports. I think I’ll rank this one highest for ease of security, amenities, and overall shopping. However, everything was super expensive – so that deducts a few points.

We landed in London without any issues and hopped on the tube to make our way to Marylebone, where we were set to meet Kim and Craig. We had met Kim and Craig when we were in Antarctica and immediately hit it off. We connected with them on the trip and had felt like we’ve known them for years, so when we were planning our Europe trip we had asked them if they would meet us in London for dinner.

Which ended up turning into sharing an Airbnb and having the whole evening catching up on life post-Antarctica. Our Airbnb was directly above a pub, so naturally instead of spending hours researching the perfect place for dinner we just went downstairs and had dinner there. Unfortunately, no discount.

We had so much fun reminiscing about Antarctica, but also talking about how life has been since then.

Up Next:
Brunch with an old coworker
-Fly back to San Diego

Accommodation:
2 Bedroom Apartment in Marylebone Hight St.

Liechenstein & Switzerland

September 11, 2025

The next morning we packed up our bags and hopped in the car for our next destination – Liechtenstein! If you haven’t heard of it, it’s a small nation nestled between Switzerland and Austria, which was a perfect pit stop on our roadtrip!

We didn’t have long to stop there before moving on to Zürich. We stopped for a quick walk through town and lunch in Vaduz, the capital, where castle views rise above quaint streets lined with cafes and little shops. Though our visit was short, it felt like stepping into a Hallmark movie: clean, peaceful, and surrounded by stunning Alpine scenery. It’s the perfect place to stretch your legs, grab a bite, and check another country off your list!

We hopped back into the car and finished the drive to Zürich. We wanted to drop our luggage at the hotel before heading to the Lindt factory for the tour, yes, that Lindt factory!

We were staying at the Central Plaza Hotel – and I can’t recommend it enough. We were within walking distance to so many restaurants and the sightseeing destinations, plus the service was exceptional. Our room wasn’t ready, but they helped stow our luggage and get us sent on our way in time for our tour.

A coworker of Andy’s had recently returned from Switzerland and had recommended this tour, so we were glad we had gotten tickets. They tend to sell out – for obvious reasons!

From the moment you walk in, it smells like heaven. You also walk in to see the largest free-standing chocolate fountain at 30 feet tall! The tour starts with a fun and interactive look at how chocolate is made and how it became so popular in Switzerland.

Of course, the best part is the tasting. As you explore the exhibits, you can sample different kinds of chocolate – and do a blind tasting to try to guess what kind it is. It is a true test of willpower to stop at just one bite.

At the end, you get to take a bunch of different samples home with you. And just like any amusement park, they pop you out in a gift shop at the end where you can shop for treats to take home. You can shop for classic gold foil truffles to special flavors you will not find anywhere else. The Lindt factory tour is part museum, part candy dream, and all sweetness. We had a blast exploring the factory!

We made our way back to the hotel and this time our room was ready for us! Andy had to run payroll, so I spent some time mapping out how we would capitalize on our time in Zürich since we just had the one night and a few hours the next morning.

Our friend at the front desk had recommended a restaurant that locals (in addition to tourists) frequented, and once Andy was at a good stopping point we made our way there. There was a small line, but because the tables were so large and we were willing to share a table we got seated really quickly.

It sort of made the experience a bit more fun sharing with strangers, unfortunately our table mates didn’t speak much English. Nearby tables were getting to know each other – and sharing fun stories. (You could see the philosophy worked out well in most cases!)

On our walk back to the hotel we stopped by to admire Grossmünster, St. Peter Church, Fraumuenster, and some of the other picturesque sights that the city had to offer. We really loved it there! It felt really clean and safe, and definitely had some of the friendliest people we had encountered on the trip!

Up Next:
– Sightsee around Zürich
– Fly to London
– Meet up with Kim & Craig!

Accommodations:
– Central Plaza Hotel Zürich

Princess for a day

September 10, 2025

We made our way to Schwangau, Germany about a 1.5 hour drive (2 hour train ride) outside of Munich to visit Neuschwanstein Castle (Pronounced Noy-Shvaan-Stine Castle). If you haven’t heard of Neuschwanstein Castle, it’s okay – but odds are you might be familiar with its look alike, the Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland. (Also, the castle in the Disney logo itself!)

We woke up to rain, which was a bit disappointing because we were worried about being able to see the castle from the bridge. But nevertheless, we started our trek over to the castle. We had our car, so we had more flexibility with our start time than if we took the train. Once we arrived, we had made the decision that we were going to pay for the bus to make the trek up to the castle.

You have a few options to make the final descent up to the castle. You can walk, pay a few euros for a bus ride (one-way or round trip), or take a horse carriage. Because of the rain, we decided the bus round trip seemed like the most practical option.

I had also read a lot of blogs ahead of time to not be late because they were strict about their timed entries. Their timing was no joke, there was an older couple that couldn’t figure out the tickets on their phone, the worker was basically counting down for them to figure it out or they wouldn’t be let it; we don’t know, but doubt they got in.

We didn’t want to be late, so we got on one of the first busses and high-tailed it over to the bridge to get one of the best views of the castles. Only to be met with a view of… rain clouds. It was disappointing, but honestly. There’s nothing you can do in situations like that, and thankfully we’ve ridden Soarin’ at Disneyland enough times so we at least know what it looks like!‘

Either take off your glasses or squint really hard 🙂
Just imagine it, right above Dani

We made our way back down to the courtyard to wait for our timed entry. We ducked under the overhand to try to avoid the rain. The tour itself is rather short, only about 45 minutes. We had a guide with little devices to listed to him on, so great information! No pictures are allowed inside the castle, which was such a disappointment since quite a few rooms were so beautiful!

Only about 15 rooms were ever finished (turns out dream castles are expensive and Ludwig wasn’t exactly practical), but the ones we got to see felt like stepping straight into a storybook. Each room has its own theme, mostly pulled from operas and old German legends that Ludwig was obsessed with. Basically, the man turned his fan-fiction into interior design.

There’s the Throne Hall, which looks like a church without the pews – full of mosaics, saints, and one very dramatic spot where a throne would have gone… except it never actually got built. Then there’s the Singer’s Hall, a massive space painted with scenes from the knightly adventures of Parzival.

Photo pulled from Wiki so you can see how cool it was since we couldn’t take any photos.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Neuschwanstein_throne_room_00180u.jpg

My favorite? The grotto. Yes, an actual man-made cave inside the castle, complete with colored lights and a little waterfall. Ludwig designed it after the Venusberg scene in Tannhäuser, but honestly it felt more like a secret lair. King Ludwig unfortunately passed away before it was completed and officially used.

The rain cleared up enough as we were leaving for the fairy-tale view ❤️

After Neuschwanstein Castle, we made our way down back to town and had lunch. We hopped back into the car before heading to a palace. Because who doesn’t want to feel like royalty on their birthday?

Neuschwanstein Castle is not on Zillow or Redfin, I checked…

If Neuschwanstein is the dramatic fairy tale castle, then Linderhof Palace is King Ludwig’s over-the-top bachelor pad. He was completely obsessed with Versailles and built this as his own mini version, filled with gold, mirrors, chandeliers, and enough sparkle to make you feel like Marie Antoinette’s plus-one. Of Course no photos in the palace either, what the heck Deutschland?!

The palace is the only one of Ludwig’s big projects he actually finished during his lifetime, and it shows. Every inch is dripping with detail. The Hall of Mirrors makes you feel like you’re in an endless selfie booth, the dining room had a table that magically rose up through the floor so Ludwig could dine without servants watching him, and the gardens are so perfectly arranged they would make Versailles proud. The guide said there was over 8 lbs of gold leaf throughout the palace, it was all of the extra you’d expect from a king that never got to really reign over his father’s country.

It is smaller and more intimate than Neuschwanstein, but just as extra. Think of it as Ludwig’s “Versailles starter pack,” created for one very dramatic bachelor with a flair for royal fantasy. He had a much larger grotto here that was recently restored, but we weren’t able to add it on to our ticket last minute. We were pretty bummed about this, but we wrapped up our tour and made our way back to Munich.

We had dinner at NENI in Munich, which is a fusion of Israeli, Spanish, and Romanian. It was delicious. We had a lovely dinner there before turning in for the evening. After a few failed attempts and closed shops, Andy found a bottle Veuve Clicquot for a birthday cheers (again Germany, don’t shut down at 8pm)!

It was a full day of exploring. The next day we would be off again on another roadtrip!

Up Next:
-Roadtrip to Liechtenstein & Switzerland

Bon Voyage Barcelona!

August 30, 2025

Saturday morning we woke up and got ready for the day and finished packing up our luggage before walking over to Sagrada Familia. This is Barcelona’s most iconic landmark and we wanted to see it one more time before heading to the cruise ship.

Sagrada Família has been under construction since 1882 and was dreamed up by Antoni Gaudí. Gaudí was Barcelona’s resident genius of all things whimsical. It’s still not finished, so every time you go, you are getting a front-row seat to the world’s longest home renovation project.

They say the main structure will finally be finished by 2026… just in time for the 100th anniversary of Gaudí’s death, but knowing this place, you might still be able to catch scaffolding selfies well into the 2030s. That might be part of the allure, maybe it’ll never be truly be finished. Time will tell!

From our hotel, it was a nice 30 minute walk over to Sagrada Familia. As we walked over we saw Casa Batlló from last year and got a better exterior picture of that as well.

Another of Gaudí’s projects

Comparing pictures of Sagrada Familia from last year, it looks like the center tower is a bit taller. But honestly, it’s just incredible to look at – it’s so worth the walk to stare at.

You really need to walk around the whole thing- each side is SO unique

Afer we walked around to get a view of all the angles, we caught a cab over to the Gothic Quarter, which was another stop similar to last year. But there was a famous bridge we didn’t know about last year, called the Ponte del Bisbe.

It’s a cool looking bridge tucked away in the neighborhood, it looks like it’s original – but was actually built in 1928. Either way, it was a super cool stop. The Gothic Quarter has such a nice mix of old medieval feel with winding streets – and modern retailers. The centerpiece is definitely the Barcelona Cathedral, which after we walked past that we made our way back to our hotel.

We checked out and got into a taxi and our way to the ship. This was the newest ship in Celebrity’s fleet – the Ascent. (Their next enters the fleet in November). The line was flowing pretty smoothly as we boarded and we didn’t have any issues getting on board or to our room. After dropping our carry ons, we headed to the cafe and got lunch.

Our tradition is a celebratory cheers on the sundeck!

Once we wrapped up lunch we decided to do a quick tour of the ship to get more familiar with the space and amenities. One of our favorite parts of cruising is the ability to unpack and get settled in while being able to see a bunch of new cities/countries. Once our suitcases arrived we got settled in to the room and then had dinner.

First sunset from our room!
Fully taking advantage of our infinite veranda, enjoying the moon’s reflection

We’re quite pleased so far with our room and the cruise! Our first day is a sea day, so I think we’ll skip writing about that – so you’ll hear from us next when we recap our first port: Malta!

Up Next:
Malta

A taste of Barcelona

August 29, 2025

If there is one place in Barcelona that feels like the city’s heartbeat, it is La Boqueria Market. Tucked right off La Rambla, this colorful maze of stalls is where locals and travelers collide over fresh fruit juices, sizzling tapas, and seafood that looks like it came straight off the boat that morning. But what makes La Boqueria so special is not just the food, it is the history. This market has been feeding Barcelona for over 800 years, and stepping inside feels like joining a tradition that has been alive since the Middle Ages. (It opened in 1217, the indoor structure you see today was opened in 1840, and then later in the 20th century the metal roof was added).

Last year when we visited Barcelona, we did not get the chance to go. As much as I wanted to, there just was not enough time to squeeze everything in. This year though, I made sure to set aside plenty of time to wander the aisles, sample the stalls, and soak in the energy of the market. And I am so glad we did, because La Boqueria ended up being a fun stop in the city!

We took our time getting ready in the morning and walked over to the market. I had read about a restaurant that was “in the market” but as looked at Google maps it was actually taking us just outside of it. We didn’t mind, it took us through a very cute area of Barcelona.

The restaurant was called Bar Pintxo – and because I’m a picky eater… I should have known better than walk in without reviewing the menu. But I really wanted to try some Spanish food. You can’t blame a girl for trying. I was so excited that they had chicken paella on the menu, but Andy swerved and ordered two tapas instead of an entree (which threw me off, because he isn’t a tapas kind of guy). So I swerved and ordered two tapas myself.

This is where I went wrong. The shrimp had heads and legs. And my rule, well, it isn’t actually a rule, but if it looks like it was alive at one point, my head can’t seem to get past it… But I have a hard time eating it.

I struggled to choke any of it down. I was dry heaving at the table. I knew I should have stuck with the chicken paella. The restaurant was adorable, the service was incredible, the sangria was exceptional. You should go to this restaurant if you are in Barcelona. Don’t let me deter you. I just ordered poorly for my taste!

Our server brought over little shots to close things out – Andy had Vermouth and I had the Cuarenta Y Tres (very similar to limoncello, the Italian, more sweet drink) so it was a wonderful experience.

Cuarenta Y Tres

We made our way back to the market and it was actually less busy than when we first got there. I don’t want you to worry, I didn’t go hungry. I was able to secure plenty of food at the market. Lots of watermelon and ice cream to get me through until dinner.

This market was so bright and colorful. There were so many different booths selling food, wine, and souvenirs. You could even take cooking classes there. (Probably other topics as well). We spent a few hours in this area wandering up and down the stalls taking it all in and looking for the best prices.

We made our way back to the hotel so Andy could log on to work for the day. We had miscalculated his PTO for the year and this was his remote week for the quarter, whoops. Grateful that his company allows him the flexibility to be able to work from anywhere though.

I had just started a new job at the end of June and had a few things I needed to wrap up before I felt like I could properly log off for vacation, so I worked for a few hours before shutting my laptop for the rest of the trip. After that, I started sorting my carryon and suitcase to get things ready for the cruise ship.

We ate dinner late at a restaurant near the hotel, El Racó. My dinner order was a much safer option compared to lunch. We felt like my croquettes looked like our corgis at home, what do you think?

Croquettes or Corgis

We checked out our hotel rooftop before Andy logged back on to finish up his work day, we got to see Sagrada Familia from a distance. What a beauty!

Roof top view of Sagrada Familia
View from our patio

Once work was done we enjoyed watching the nightlife from our terrace, which included comparing the Barcelona police vs. the police in the US. It was fun to watch – we do feel bad for the poor guy who likely ended up getting a ticket for what we can only assume was drunk-biking. (And walked home by a police officer).

Up Next:
Stop by Sagrada Familia
Gothic Quarter
Board cruise ship

Oh my god, we’re back again… (Barcelona 2025!)

August 27/28, 2025

Flights to Europe from San Diego are pretty limited, but there are a few options to London, Munich, and another new one to Amsterdam a few days a week. We were pretty excited because this was our first time that we had converted our AMEX points into AVIOS with British Airways and got Business Class aka… lie flat seats. Yippee!

One of Andy’s coworkers (shout out to Courtney!) had taught me the secret last year – and I’m forever in her debt. Let me know if you want to learn more and I can write more about it!

We are pretty excited for this trip because we are visiting a handful of new countries, but most excited because we are finally getting to Greece. I’ve dreamed of visiting Greece since I was young – I guess probably right after I learned about Greek mythology about Mount Olympus and Zeus. (Not to mention I’ve loved tzatziki as long as I’ve known about it).

We finished out the work day at the airport and then hopped on the plane. I’m not going to get used to flying this way… because on the second leg of the trip we were already back in economy, but it was pretty comfortable when we were able to lay flat!

We didn’t end up landing in Barcelona until around 8ish on Thursday evening – we were so excited that once we got to the hotel that they had upgraded our terrace room that was two chairs to a full terrace with like, six chairs and a full patio! It was stunning!

Can you believe the size of this thing?

Andy had to work that evening (Thursday back in California) so we ordered room service. I was dead on my feet – and slipped on my eye mask and was asleep before he even wrapped up his calls.

Accommodation:
NH Collection Barcelona Gran Hotel Calderon

Up Next:
Barcelona
Mediterranean Cruise

Final days of Antarctica

January 6/7/8, 2025

We woke up on our final day of the cruise to much smoother waters. We were relieved that we had survived the Drake Shake and that we could relax a bit more on the final day. We spent the morning getting our suitcases organized and watching some of the different crews science talks from our room.

There was one session we wanted to attend in-person, and that was the talk about where we all stopped on the cruise. It was really fun to be able to look back on the different stops and see the names and locations all in one map.

The lecture hall is right by the Science Center, so on our way out we were also able to take a look at all of the animals that had been spotted throughout the trip. It was pretty cool to see what animals and what days they were spotted on. Antarctica – and the surrounding area are just incredible. I’m writing this about a month after we left the ship – and it feels like a fever dream to know that we got to be in these animals’ natural (almost undisturbed) habitat.

I hope that for years to come other explorers get to see the pristine wilderness of Antarctica. We only scratched the surface! I know many people view Antarctica as a once in a lifetime trip, but I sure hope that I can go back again one day. I LOVED it.

The evening of our last day, the officers hosted a toast to all of us and previewed a video that the professional photographer put together with his pictures. It was really beautiful to see – and also, even though we were on the exact ship – see some of the pictures (and videos!) of wildlife that we missed! If you’re interested, it’s actually hosted on YouTube and you can view it here. It is long – but I swear, it’s worth it!

After dinner, our group of new friends made our way up to the lounge one last time. Davon, the professional pianist gave me a proper send off with some of my favorite 90s music. I really hope he has the most wonderful life in front of him, he definitely made our experience more enjoyable throughout the trip!

Sure hope he has been practicing his Britney Spears and Backstreet Boys!

We all toasted our friends good night before heading off to bed before an early wakeup the next day.


We woke up in Ushuaia the next morning and had breakfast with Craig and Kim one last time. They were on an earlier flight and we wanted to have a proper send off with them before they made their way to the bus.

We were the last group to be called to get loaded on the buses, but what we didn’t realize was that we were getting a proper tour of the city before getting dropped at the airport! We had about an hour to walk around and pick up some souvenirs. (Which was great, considering the only place we could even get postcards was from Port Lockroy and the Penguin Post Office!)

Ushuaia really is a charming little town – and I wish we could have had a bit more time there. But we were glad that we got to see a bit of it before heading to the airport.

This was going to be the longest travel day ever. We were set to fly from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires, which was a 3.5 hour flight. Once we landed in BA, we had an 8-hour layover. We had toyed with the idea of getting a hotel, even if to just take a nap and freshen up before our next flight, but the hotels were more expensive than we had thought and would take about an hour roundtrip to get to/from.

We opted to stay in the airport for those 8 hours. We were flying AeroMexico, and their check-in counter didn’t open until closer to 8pm. That meant we had to sit on the other side of security for a few hours. Our new friend Dena was in a similar position, so we looked around at the only restaurants that were outside of security. And we landed on Outback Steakhouse. (This one was for you, Ash!)

Dena parted ways with us and we made our way to Starbucks to sit for a bit longer. We finally had a check in counter, and now we just needed it to be staffed. I don’t think we’ve ever been so relieved to see the gate agents making their way to the counter!

After dropping our bags we made our way through the longest security line and made our way to a lounge to relax before our flight. Our next stop was Mexico City – just a short 9.5 hour flight. 🙈 We aren’t sure how, but we somehow got upgraded to “extra room” seats. It was nice to have the extra space on that long flight!

Shortly into the flight is when I started to have the “sickening” aka when I started to feel like I was getting a chest cold. I started to get full body aches – and I knew this wasn’t going to be good. Something similar had happened to me on the way back from Australia and I wanted to be anywhere but on a plane.

After landing in Mexico City, we cleared customs and tried to find somewhere to hole up for a few hours so we could stretch out. One perk about having travel credit cards is lounge access – can’t stress this enough – it makes a layover that much more enjoyable with free food and comfier chairs, in addition to quieter environments.

Our final flight was from Mexico City to Tijuana – another 3.5 hour flight. We finally made it home on Wednesday, January 8! It was a long journey from the end of the world, but it was an absolutely incredible trip!

Next trip:
– Panama for Andy’s 40th!

The Drake Shake

January 5, 2025 

After all of the excitement from the previous days, we were ready for a day to relax. However, Drake had other plans for us. I woke up in the middle of the night to rolling waves and a deep shuddering. The shuddering was so intense I thought I was going to vibrate right out of the bed. I don’t normally get sea sick and I had taken Meclizine tablets in preparation the night before, but despite my best efforts I woke up feeling like I was going to be sick.

For about an hour I had bounced back and forth between thinking that I was going to throw up and then reminding myself that I was going to be fine. After that hour, I finally decided to wake Andy up to get one of his motion sickness patches. Once I had that, I started to feel better pretty quickly and was able to fall back asleep. 

The expedition team had some activities planned for us – and a lot of different lectures that we could attend during the day. We watched a few from our room and then went to the buffet for lunch since it was on a lower floor. (We were hoping it would make the motion sickness better). But as we sat near the window, we saw just how big the swells were – we later found out that they were about 25-28 feet. It’s really hard to do these waves justice in pictures/videos, but I assure you they were bad!

We were grateful that we didn’t have the Drake Shake both ways, because it really put a damper on the morale of the ship because so many people were sick.

We made the best of it though, and we attended a Bridge tour. We’ve done a handful of cruises in the past, and this was our first time being able to see what it looked like. The crew were incredible – they actually allowed me to pretend to be the captain and use their binoculars. It was really cool and a lot different than I thought it would be. 

After that, we attended the Officer Q&A, which was pretty fun to hear the different questions and answers. I naturally wanted to understand how the restocking process works since we don’t stop at any ports. Come to find out that they only restock once a month for non-perishable items, and then restock each time they dock in Ushuaia with the perishable items. The hospitality manager said that we had let her down when it came to the amount of beer and wine we had drank during that cruise, and we had more left than she thought we would have. (We all saw this as a challenge, naturally! 😂)

Most people weren’t feeling their best, and so most of the sessions were pretty quiet. The crew let us know to expect similar conditions the next day, which none of us were thrilled to hear.

Up Next:
– Another day on the Drake  

The Drake Passage: where there’s no-sleep till safe shores!

December 30, 2024

Shockingly, it was another relatively smooth day on Drake Passage. Some guests didn’t feel great from the waves, Andy didn’t feel 100% so took it a bit easier than normal. It was another ship day, so we spent more time exploring the ship and sitting in different lectures.

We had to attend a mandatory IAATO briefing that let us know what we could/could not do Antarctica. I’d like to say that it was common sense, but I have learned common sense isn’t so common anymore. 😅 For example, how far away you should stay from penguins (15 feet) and other wildlife, leave no trace, how many tourists can be on land at one time, etc. In order to get off the ship you had to attend this briefing.

Our expedition director

Part of the IAATO treaty was also making sure that you vacuumed out all of your outside layer for any foreign objects. So we also made sure to vacuum all of our hats, mittens, snow pants, backpack, etc. that could leave any material behind. They had stations set up around the ship so we could all do our part in not bringing in any invasive materials.

On different cruise lines, they are known for their entertainment, food, activities, etc. HX is an expedition company, so they are very focused on educational programs, which was great for us to learn more about Antarctica!

We were told that we would be sailing into the Antarctic Convergence. What is that you ask? The Antarctic Convergence Zone is where the cold waters from Antarctica meet the warmer waters from the sub-Antarctic. This creates a super productive area in the ocean, full of nutrients that support tons of wildlife like krill, penguins, seals, and whales. It’s also known for its wild conditions: strong currents, frequent storms, and rough seas. Basically it’s a cold and stormy region that lets you know that you are nearing Antarctica!

Regardless of the cold, we hopped back into the hot tub again. It was pretty funny how much difference a day can make!

By early evening, we started to see our first icebergs – which got. us very excited!

Up Next:
– First day landing in Antarctica!

Exploring the MS Fridjtof Nansen

December 29, 2024

After departing Ushuaia, we were heading straight for the Drake Passage en route to Antarctica. The Drake Passage is the body of water between the southern tip of South America (Cape Horn) and Antarctica, connecting the South Pacific and South Atlantic Oceans. It’s known for its rough seas and unpredictable weather: strong winds, large waves, and frequent storms, which make it one of the most treacherous routes in the world.

This was the only part of the trip that scared me – I had seen so many videos on social media of giant waves rocking the ship violently, and following other people’s journey and knowing how seasick they felt on the passage.

Thankfully, we both felt fine and had learned from previous cruises what worked for us. Andy had patches that he wears behind his ears and I use Meclizine to combat seasickness. Others on the trip complained about not feeling well, which really sucked for a lot of people. However, we were blessed with relatively calm waters (all things considered).

We spent some time exploring the ship that day – it was still relatively warm. We were one of the only couples out in the hot tubs! It was pretty funny to watch people walk by all bundled up and both of us were in our bathing suits!

This ship also has a wonderful sauna that has a panoramic view to the water, which is definitely a highlight! (Andy loves it – I can’t sit in there for more than 5 minutes at a time).

It also comes equipped with a science center, which is pretty cool. There’s a variety of skeletons and different displays that show the difference in the animals found in Antarctica. They also have quite a few microscopes set up – each day we are in Antarctica they will be sending out science boats that are optional. I’m sure that’s where the microscopes will come in handy!

The HX team kept us busy – we had picked up our jackets the day before and now we needed to get fitted for our expedition boots. Unlike the jacket, these boots would have to be returned at the end of our cruise. However, they are required for all of our landings and zodiac trips during the cruise. We were also assigned our groups – how HX would organize our different activities – so we received our animal patches.

Our group is the Snow Petrel, which is an adorable bird. However, I think we were both hoping for something bigger – like an Orca Whale or Humpback. But we will take what we can get!

We rounded out the evening by spending time listening to the ship’s pianist in the Observation Lounge. After some peer pressure, I was able to get a few Millennial favorites: Britney Spears and the Backstreet Boys.

Up Next:
– Another day at sea





Merry Christmas from Argentina!

December 25, 2024 (and 26-27)

We woke up the next morning still tired from the long travel day the day before, but filled with excitement! We were going to make a quick day trip to Uruguay – a new country for us – by high-speed ferry.

I had assumed it would be pretty similar to trains in Europe, where you can show up 20-30 minutes before the train departs and be fine. But before I fell asleep, I had translated our e-tickets and saw a note that we needed to be there two hours before our departure time. Our departure time was at 12:15 – so we needed to get there around 10AM. We realized that it was Christmas in Argentina, and that most businesses were completely shut down.

So we had a beautiful walk in Buenos Aires over to the port to catch our ferry. We quickly realized that the ferry there was more similar to an airport experience. You had to check in – go through security – go through both Argentina’s customs AND Uruguay’s in the same area. Because I’m paranoid, we had plenty of time to get through all of these hoops and hurdles.

Not to mention, I had booked “business” class because it wasn’t that much more than the normal seats. We had no idea what it all included, but we stumbled into the VIP lounge and finally found food and much needed coffee.

Unfortunately for us, our Spanish has become rusty over the years. All of the announcements were in Spanish, so we were relying on the other passengers to understand what was going on. It turns out, our ferry was running over an hour late… and this ferry also could bring cars over. We heard (but can’t confirm this) that there were over 200 hundred cars loaded onto our ferry as well!

What was supposed to be a 2.5-3 hour event in Uruguay – ended up getting more and more delayed. By the time we got to Colonia del Sacramento, we had 20 minutes before we had to check back in with security again. We had planned on having lunch and strolling through the historic district (which is a UNESCO world heritage site), but ended up power walking through the district instead.

The ferry terminal in Colonia del Sacramento was much smaller, and less organized than the one in Buenos Aires. But we made it through the same security/customs we had cleared in BA – and then sat down in a cafeteria area. We had met our first fellow Americans while in line, they were at the end of their trip – we enjoyed sharing different travel stories with one another.

We quickly realized that we were on the same ferry as we traveled over on – and had a good laugh that the crew would see us and wonder what we were doing back so soon. (Only one woman noticed us – and we had shared a knowing smile).

This time the ferry was on time – there were far fewer cars that needed to be loaded on this leg of the trip. If you’re in the area, I’d highly recommend traveling with BuqueBus – it’s allegedly the fastest ferry in the area, but I’m sure other providers are good too.

Once we made it back to BA – we started our search for restaurants that were starting to open up. I had read that most things were closed on Christmas, but if they were going to open it would be around 6 or 7 and only for the dinner service. We found a burger joint – we resisted the temptation of the Hard Rock Cafe and found a local spot instead.

After dinner, we made our way back to the hotel to relax. The next two days would be pretty low-key as Andy was working remotely. I’m going to provide a quick highlight of our time in BA below!

Buenos Aires highlights:
Puerto Madero: a vibrant and upscale neighborhood, known for its stunning waterfront views and fun dining and entertainment options. It was originally an old port district, it has undergone a dramatic transformation into a trendy hub, featuring luxurious hotels, stylish restaurants, and high-end office buildings.
Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Woman) is another famous landmark, a pedestrian bridge that is shaped like a sailboat.
-Lots of shopping and restaurants near the hotel. We ate dinner at a few – interestingly enough there were a ton of Italian restaurants (of course in addition to all of the Argentinean steakhouses).
Tango shows: we didn’t have enough time to do one of these, but I did a lot of research and wish we could have made it work!

Hotel:
-Hotel Emperador Buenos Aires

Up Next:
– Flight to Ushuaia
– Board cruise ship