Deception Island & Whaler’s Bay

January 4, 2025

Our last stop in Antarctica was Deception Island – specifically, Whaler’s Bay. Deception Island is a volcanic island in Antarctica, famous for its hot springs and stunning landscapes. It’s still an active volcanic caldera, having most recently erupted in 1970. It’s considered a “restless” caldera, which means it shows ongoing signs of activity – such as, earthquakes, geo thermal activity (part of the beach was steaming), and gas emissions. The caldera formed 10,000 years ago when the volcano collapsed after a major eruption.

Whaler’s Bay was once a busy whaling station from the 1900s to the 1930s due to its natural protection from wild weather). The bay was home to a major whaling station operated by the British, where whales were processed for oil and other products. The station had large processing facilities, and after the whaling industry failed the station was abandoned. All that stands today are the decaying buildings, rusting equipment, and bone fragments that provide a rather haunting view into the past.

That morning our crew let us know that we would be passing through Neptune’s Bellows, the narrow entrance into Port Foster (Deception Island). It’s a very small gap that is the only way into the crater of Deception Island – many people gathered outside to get pictures and videos. I have to say, it was really cold, so we didn’t last for very long outside due to the wind!

We started our day’s adventure off with a zodiac tour, to our amazement we immediately saw a leopard seal! Our driver told us that it’s very unusual to see leopard seals in that area because they really like being on the ice, so we were excited that it decided to grace us with its presence!

Upon first glance, you could already tell this stop was different from the rest. It was very rough and jagged – with lava rock lining the beaches. As our boat drove around, there were Chinstrap penguins swimming along next to us and jumping out of the waves. It was so cute to see them playing in our wake! The island is home to colonies of over 70,000 Chinstrap penguins, which we could see every direction that we looked. It was also incredible to see the steam rising up from the shore due to the geothermal activity.

After our zodiac tour, we went back to the ship and we had a decision to make. Most expedition ships offer the polar plunge to their explorers – which usually entails being harnessed to the ship and jumping off the side. HX only offered the polar plunge from shore, which most of us were not thrilled about. In my humble opinion, and because you’re here… It’s in the name right? Polar plunge. Not slowly wander into the cold water from the beach.

I was teetering back and forth on if I wanted to do it, because you would have to wear your swimsuit under your winter wear for the landing. (Which also meant hiking in it!) And I just didn’t love the idea of hiking in it, and then having to be taking back by zodiac to the boat. I had a glass of champagne with our new friends, and another… and decided that if I was in a nursing home later in life I would regret not doing it.

So I suited up – and then bundled back up. Our group met at the Expedition Launch and we made our way to the zodiacs that would bring us to shore. We went on a short hike to a scenic viewpoint – on the way we walked past a lot of wildlife: penguins, seals, birds, and saw whale bones scattered among the lava rock.

The whale graveyard in the background

I personally had a one track mind. I didn’t want to chicken out of doing the polar plunge, so as soon as we got to the approved “plunge” area I started stripping. Our goal as a group was to go in at the same time, but I was hot to trot because frankly, I wanted to get it over with!

Unfortunately for us, the team hadn’t put us close to the geothermal water that was warm. We were in a cold area – and since we were strolling in, it felt like my toes might actually fall off. I dunked down to my neck and popped back up and went running back to shore. HX provided towels, so I quickly rubbed down and threw on my robe then my jacket and snow pants over that. (It really was quite the sight!)

Fashionista

We made it back on board and quickly hopped into the hot tub to warm back up. Honestly, I would have preferred that we did it off the ship, but I’m glad that I did it.

That evening we spent in the Observation Lounge encouraging our favorite pianist to play our favorite songs so people could sing along. It was a great last day on Antarctica!

Up Next:
– Drake Passage

From Sunshine to Rain: A Day in the Lemaire Channel and Petermann Island

January 1, 2025

The HX team was incredibly kind to us and made sure that we got to sleep in on New Year’s Day. The first activity that we had was cruising through the Lemaire Channel, which is known as one of Antarctica’s most stunning and iconic waterways. The channel is a popular spot for expedition cruises, because it offers visitors a glimpse into the untouched wilderness of Antarctica. We were able to take in the views from our balcony, which was great to watch (and hear!) the icebergs float on by.

I was just about to comment on how nice it was to have a slow morning after such a late night when an overhead announcement was made that they were moving our landing time up in the day. So we had to quickly get ready, eat lunch, and then bundle up to get outside.

It was pretty cold and rainy – which was a stark contrast from the day before. I was expecting snow and didn’t anticipate how much the rain would really put a damper on the day. However, every day in Antarctica is a good day!

Andy got some of the best wildlife photos on the trip there – including a momma penguin feeding her chick. We saw some whales and seals – it truly was incredible just being there and witnessing the animals in their environment. It’s penguin country!

Earlier this year, Andy and I realized that each of us had a pair of shoes that had almost been to every continent. When we had this discovery, we put them into retirement until this trip so they could still be functional – but have stepped “foot” on each continent. We followed the treaty protocol and made sure that we vacuumed out any foreign debris from the soles, and packed them up in our backpack.

A little rough around the edges, but they’ve seen some things!

We had a little shoe photoshoot, and then touched them down in the snow. We’re going to try to figure out how we can put them on display in our house, but we were so excited to have made it work. Those shoes really have seen the world!

In order to warm back up we took another dip in the hot tub, and the sauna for Andy.

Up Next:
– Our first continental landing!