Jordan – Day 7/8 (Dead Sea!)

We had another early start this day – there would be a lot of driving! We were set to see some desert castles and then head to the Dead Sea in the afternoon. We hadn’t really looked up too much about the castles ahead of time, but we were sure they were going to be pretty cool.

The first stop was in the middle of nowhere. It was one of the only structures in the area. They believe the structure was to have been built in 718 AD – and what it was used for was up for debate. But you could see that there was a central courtyard and there used to be balconies facing the interior. The thought was it could have been a stopping point for the camel caravans.

From there, we made our way to a bathhouse that is a UNSECO world heritage site (Quseir Amra). When we pulled up, it felt like something that inspired Star Wars with its rounded roof. Inside, there were beautiful murals all around. It also served as a hunting pavilion – you would see the connection in some of the murals.

The last castle we visited was one of Lawrence of Arabia’s strongholds. This one had been in pretty bad shape and had been restored. It was made of black stone – and you could tell it had been put back together. Things felt a little, well shaky? And some of the areas had holes in the roof so if you didn’t watch your step you could fall through!

Our favorite part was the doors to the main entrance is composed of a single massive hinged slab of granite weighing roughly 3 tons, was hinged with palm oil, it was created in a way that was hard to enter, which slowed down would be attackers, so they could pour hot oil from above. The doors would basically close after you entered, quite a cool aspect of this castle considering they still worked. We had fun trying to open them because it took a lot of effort!

We haven’t seen Lawrence of Arabia, but we did leave feeling inspired to watch it now knowing it was based on a true story!

After this last castle we boarded the bus to make our way to the Dead Sea – we were about 2+ hours away now. Our tour group paid for day passes at one of the Dead Sea resorts. It was a beautiful resort! We wish we could have stayed there for a night. (And would highly recommend that area if you are making your way to Jordan!)

Once we got there, we had lunch before changing up to head down to the water. As soon as we got down there I made a bee line for the water. It wasn’t super warm, but this was a once in a lifetime opportunity! Others from our group were already in the water and they said to just sit back and then you’d float.

Standing on the East bank of the Dead Sea
We lucked out with the weather, it was a quite decent day!

And sure enough, that’s exactly what happened! I just leaned back and my feet popped up from underneath me. What an extraordinary experience! Andy stayed on the shore to take a few pictures and videos before joining me.

We climbed out of the water to do a mud bath. The resort we were at offered the mud for free – but knowing I didn’t want to get water in my eyes or mouth I only did half of my face. Also, wasn’t too sure if it would stain my swimsuit so tried to only put on my skin that wasn’t near that.

If you’re heading to the Dead Sea, some words of wisdom. Do not, and I repeat do not get the water in your eyes or your mouth! We heard a few people say how vile it tasted – and I can only imagine how badly it burns. The Dead Sea is 9.6% saltier than the ocean. And what we wished we would have known is that the salt can stain your swimmies – so bring something you don’t care if it gets stained. We rinsed ours off 2-3x and ours were fine!

You can actually see how salty the water is!

We were at the Dead Sea for lunch and floating for about 2-3 hours before we made our way back to Amman. We did make one more stop at a place that gave us a “special” discount for 50% off – but coincidentally we heard them tell 2-3 other groups the same thing. We figured we could likely get something at the airport for cheaper so we skipped.

This was the last day we would see our tour guide and bus driver – we tipped them and then went back to the room. We freshened up at the hotel and packed up as this was our last night in Jordan.

We didn’t want to do the banquet again, so we walked over to our new favorite spot – the Amman International Hotel. Our server from the previous two nights had the night off, so we had a new server. He was great too! Stefan and Nicky joined us – and we had a great final dinner together.

They were off to Petra again at 7 the next morning. And we were getting picked up at 7:30 to head to the airport.

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The next morning, we transferred to the airport with our Canadian friends. They were moving on to Egypt – and we were so excited for them! But once we got to the airport we quickly went separate ways due to flying different airlines. However, the Amman airport was super easy to navigate and we took advantage of the Royal Jordanian lounge access before getting on our plane.

This was a REALLY cool lounge – they had a little coffee shop. A buffet. Two totally different seating areas. It looks like later in the day a dessert place would open AND a pizza place! Definitely a highlight.

Our return flight connected in Chicago vs. JFK. THANK GOD! We didn’t want to deal with that again. There actually was a long line even for Global Entry, but it moved pretty quickly.

There weren’t any lounges – and it was St. Patrick’s Day in Chicago. So the Irish-themed restaurant was busy so we just found another restaurant and sat for a while.

We weren’t thrilled to learn that the tour company booked us with American Airlines, who I had vowed never to fly again (for the second time) in January. Thankfully, we made it home on time and didn’t have any issues at all. I still will avoid them at all costs in the future. Fool me once…

Up Next:

⁃ Spain/Portugal/Morocco cruise (August/September 2024)

Jordan – Day 5

A slight break in the itinerary for a more leisure day driving back to Amman. The return drive from Wadi Rum to Amman was around 4-5 hours. This was a more relaxing day for us. We left the camp after breakfast and made multiple stops along the way.

This local baby didn’t mind us at all as we moved around in our Martian Tent

The tour company does a good job of breaking up the drives to make sure people have plenty of opportunity to use the bathroom and get snacks. We had lunch at the same “Midway Castle” that we did on the way down. Thankfully, this time people were far less sales-y and we were able to look at more things.

We were also relieved because this next hotel we would be at for three nights – so less unpacking just to repack. This was the same hotel we stayed at on the front part of our trip.

The room this time was much better than the first night, another small win!

This little fella met us again as we pulled up to the hotel

We relaxed in our room before making our way over to the Amman International Hotel – that did have a full service bar and restaurant. A Russian woman was our server, and we enjoyed talking with her.

Just as our food was coming out, Steffan from our group walked in. We invited him and his wife Nicky, to join us. We sat around and had a lot of good conversations.

Hotel:

Gerasa Hotel (Amman)

Up Next:

Panoramic tour of Amman

Ajlun Castle

Jerash (Roman ruins)

Jordan – Day 2

Jet lag, strikes again. Although I was so tired from a long travel day, my body woke me up wide awake at 3:00 am. I wasn’t thrilled knowing that we had a long day ahead of us, but instead I was determined to lie awake thinking of all the things that could go wrong. Does Jordan get earthquakes? I forgot to check for bed bugs – did something just crawl across my leg?

Then I switched over to the more positive… What would be a good quote and/or song to accompany our celebration of completing all seven wonders of the world?

Once Andy woke up (he is blessed with being able to sleep anywhere, well) we started the morning off with breakfast at the hotel. We met up with the rest of the group and got on a coaster bus – we were slightly disappointed because there was a charter bus parked next to it. (More space in general – sometimes a bathroom to use, etc).

Our first stop was Mount Nebo. For those of you who have read the Bible, you might recognize this as the place that Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land. It’s a special place for Christians, because this is where Moses was laid to rest as well. We could see all the way to the West Bank, the Dead Sea, and Jericho (one of the oldest cities in the world).

Dead Sea, West Bank above, and Jericho on the right middle

There was also a church at this location that had some of the most beautiful mosaic floors and walls that I’ve seen before. You were meant to be silent while you were in it, and it truly was very peaceful. On the grounds there was an olive tree that was planted by Pope John Paul II in 2000.

From Mount Nebo we made our way to a mosaic manufacturing place – we were able to meet a co-op of artists that specialized in mosaic and pottery. It was pretty cool to see them in action. They also had a great partnership with DHL that allowed them to ship large pieces around the world.

After that we made our way to St. George’s Church where one of the oldest mosaic maps depicting Palestine was. It was smaller than we thought – and pretty damaged. But it was interesting to see it. It was made in the sixth century AD, and they made it based off of their mind/perceptions.

We also went to a castle that was built by the conquerors in 1115. It was pretty well maintained, and it was a fun stop.

From there, we went to Little Petra. This was supposed to happen a few days later, but our guide switched it up. It was good to see the smaller one before the big one.

The Nabatean people were advanced – having mastered engineering to move water and hold onto it in cisterns. There was even a fresco in a cave that you had to climb up to. Supposedly, it is one of the oldest frescos at roughly 2000 years old.

There’s supposed to be grapes and chubby little boys – I think I can see the vines?!

Because we switched up the itinerary and added Little Petra today, and not on day 3, we had to quickly check into our hotel and eat dinner before heading to Petra at night.

We didn’t realize it was technically a “show” – we thought it was just going to be open to the public and be candlelit. There were some typical Jordanian performers – playing a flute and the other played a one string instrument called a rababa. It was nice to hear music while taking in the Treasury. But I don’t think it’s my style of music.

We made our way out of Petra (which was really uneven and treacherous in the dark!) and back to the hotel. We had a pretty early morning the next day, but because I hadn’t slept much I was able to fall asleep pretty quickly. We were excited to see more of Petra the next day!

Hotel:

RN Hotel Petra

Up Next:

Petra

Jordan Day 1

March 9, 2024 – We woke up bright and early to make our way to the airport. I was trying a new approach and decided that I was going to fit everything into a carry on and personal item. This is a feat in itself, because I don’t know how to travel light.

We’ve experienced this with other travel groups, and didn’t want to have to wait for our luggage once we go to Jordan. Unfortunately, there were no direct flights into Amman, so we flew from San Diego into JFK.

Our flight was smooth – it was supposed to be a full flight but somehow we had an open seat next to us. It allowed us to be a bit more comfortable. In New York we had a 3 hour connection, which we thought would be plenty of time to find the American Express Speakeasy. We were so wrong. We had to exit our terminal, get on the AirTrain, and go to another terminal to get there.

We realized that we took the wrong train – and decided we were going to opt out of the Speakeasy. We made our way to our terminal – and thankfully we did. Because it was an international flight (even though we were in JFK…) our TSA pre check didn’t work. So we had to get into one of the worst security lines we’ve seen, ever. I don’t say that lightly.

JFK TSA has to be one of the least efficient organizations around. We barely made it through security when our flight started boarding. We made it with plenty of time, but didn’t get a chance to eat in the airport and honestly, most of the time it’s the roll of a dice if the airline will have good food.

Because this is our 10-year wedding anniversary trip we took a chance and put a bid in for business class, and they accepted! It was a great way to kick off our trip – we were thrilled that on our 11 hour flight we had the option to lie flat in our seats. It’s going to be tough going back to economy, where we belong!

Super comfy!
Legs barely touched, but I’ll make do!

The flight itself was pretty uneventful – and I actually did sleep for about 5.5-6 hours, which may be a new record! With the time difference, we landed around 4 pm.

The Coast of the West Bank
The southern tip of the Dead Sea as we flew into Jordan

We quickly deplaned and found our guide from Exoticca. This is the second time that we’ve traveled with Exoticca, the last time was in Egypt. We had a great experience with them, and hope they are able to match our Egypt experience!

There was only one other woman on our flight traveling with Exoticca. Tia – from Maine. An adorable little thing that reminded us of a combination of two our friends, so we became fast friends.

What we didn’t know – is that in Jordan their weekend is actually Friday and Saturday (no work) and Sunday was the start of their week. We got stuck in pretty bad traffic.

Our driver had to stop to get gas, and Tia went to use the restroom. She confirmed that Jordan indeed also has squatty potties (throw back to Thailand and Sri Lanka! The real ones remember the infamous squatty potty story in Sri Lanka).

We made it to our hotel around 6 pm and freshened up before going to dinner at the hotel restaurant. It’s pretty common for the restaurants to just have buffets – and not necessarily menus to order from.

We weren’t too surprised to learn that the restaurant didn’t carry wine, but this made us wish that we had packed some to celebrate our anniversary with. Oh well!

We got settled in because we knew the next day we were set to do some sightseeing and Petra by night, which meant it would be a long day.

Hotel:

Gerasa Hotel (Amman)

Up Next:

  • Mount Nebo
  • Madaba: mosaic map
  • St. George Church
  • Shobak Castle
  • Little Petra
  • Petra by night