March 9, 2026

Our cruise brought us to Suva, the capital of Fiji. While many travelers head straight for the beaches, Suva offers something different. There is history, culture, and a look at everyday Fijian life.

Suva is the largest city in Fiji and the country’s political and cultural center. It’s known for its colorful markets, colonial buildings, and strong traditions from the native Fijian people, known as the iTaukei. Many of Fiji’s customs are still practiced today, especially in villages throughout the islands.

One tradition that plays a big role in Fijian culture is kava. Kava is a drink made from the root of a plant in the pepper family. The root is dried, ground into powder, and mixed with water. It looks a bit like muddy tea, but it’s much more than just a drink.

Kava ceremonies are an important social ritual in Fiji. They are often used to welcome visitors, mark special events, or bring a community together. During a ceremony, the drink is served in a large wooden bowl called a tanoa. When it’s your turn, you clap once, drink the kava in one go, and clap three times after. The drink has a calming effect and can make your mouth feel a little tingly!

The four of us had signed up for the Jewels of Fiji tour with the ship, which would bring us to one of these ceremonies. Much to our dismay, we made our way off the ship and were greeted by a large coach bus with every window open (think 85 degrees and 85% humidity). And somehow – even though we were the first ones out of the theater – we were at the very back of the bus.

It was a pretty uncomfortable ride, but as soon as we got off the bus we were greeted by the sound of drums and we immediately got excited. Our guide had prepared us well for what to expect: we needed to remove our hats, sunglasses, and shoes before entering the long house.

One member from our bus would taste the kava. (Unfortunately for us, we were in the back so even if we wanted to volunteer there’s no way we would have been picked). By the time we got in to the long house, there were no chairs left.

As a quick side note, I don’t think I’ve mentioned this yet. But this cruise is a bit on the older side. Even compared to our Alaskan cruise, we were the youngest by far!

Knowing that we wouldn’t want to take any chairs from someone our senior, Emily and I sat on the floor. What we didn’t know is that we were right behind the two volunteers who were going to be drinking the kava. There were a few times where I thought about asking if I could have a taste. 😉

Our host welcomed all of us to their village – explained how kava was made – and led the rest of the village in song to welcome us. Then the ceremony began!

I have to be honest – the kava looked like mud. We as a collective group chose to have one of our “tributes” drink a tsunamis worth (he was a good sport).

Once it finished, they began their performances. Some of the men began a traditional dance – at this point Emily and I were front row. The dance was more of a “warrior” dance – and they had their battle axes. I had whispered to Emily, “I hope he doesn’t swing that thing this way.”

I’m sure you can guess what happened next… Yep! He did! Not once but twice, and I’m sure our giggling only fueled the fire. Mark got a great video of the “attack.” The local women came out next and sang a much calmer song before we began lunch.

After lunch, we climbed into a long boat and cruised down the Navua River. The scenery felt straight out of a movie because it actually was. Parts of the jungle along this river were used as a filming location for Anacondas.

Thankfully, we didn’t see any giant snakes. But we did find something even better! A beautiful waterfall hidden deep in the rainforest. After the boat ride, we hiked a short trail to reach it. The cool water and the sound of the jungle made it feel like a secret world far away from the cruise ship.

The river itself had some fun rapids, at one point our captain asked the men to get out and walk. At first we thought he was joking, but realized he was serious. Our boat just didn’t have enough power to make it up! Our group all got out and walked up together – but on the way down we all rode in the boat and got absolutely soaked in the brown river water. It was an incredible adventure that none of us will soon forget.

Suva may not always be the first stop travelers think of in Fiji, but it offers something special: culture, tradition, and a little bit of adventure in the heart of the islands.

Up Next:
Lautoka, Fiji